Where should I start?
What's the difference between mor lam and luk tung?
What is Isan?
What if I don't know Thai/Isan/Lao?
Where can I buy mor lam and luk tung?
Should I buy CDs or VCDs?
Who are the best singers?
Where can I see mor lam and luk tung?


Where should I start?

Young Thai females tend to gravitate towards luk tung, and Tai Oratai in particular. Middle-aged western males tend to develop obsessions with mor lam, and Jintara Poonlarp in particular. One of those would be a good place to begin.

What's the difference between mor lam and luk tung?

It's increasingly difficult to distinguish mor lam from luk tung. Broadly, mor lam is older (although modern forms are very different from traditional ones); it is culturally Lao (although most mor lam singers are Thais from Isan); it is sung in Lao or Isan (although it is often sung partly in Thai, or on occasion even in English); it is fast (although it may be slow); and it uses traditional instruments (although it may use modern instruments). Luk tung is a relatively recent form (although its roots are as old as mor lam's); it is culturally Thai (although its best singers are culturally Lao); it is sung in Thai (although it is increasingly sung in Isan); it is slow (although it may be fast). Unsurprisingly many nowadays give up and call them both luk tung.

What is Isan?

Isan is the northeastern (and poorest) region of Thailand. Most of its people are ethnic Lao rather than Thai, and speak Isan (a dialect of Lao written in the Thai script) as well as Thai.There is also a substantial Cambodian minority as well as other smaller ethnic groups, making the population extremely diverse.

What if I don't know Thai/Isan/Lao?

Frankly, you're not missing much. Mor lam and luk tung are short on singer-songwriters with pithy, perceptive comments on contemporary life. Most of the songs are ballads, and like popular songs everywhere concern themselves primarily with unrequited love. All the major artists in Thailand and Laos release their material on VCD as well as CD, so the story can be picked up as easily from the video as from the words.

Where can I buy mor lam and luk tung?

In Thailand, you can buy CDs and VCDs of the major artists in almost any record shop, or even in the 7-11. Mor lam and luk tung are almost always in the same section, often labelled "Thai country", or "Thai traditional", and in any case easily recognised by the garish album covers. This is a very short-term industry though, so anything more than a couple of years old is normally hard to find. Outside Thailand, you can order them from any number of online retailers, such as ethaicd, thaimegamart or thainetcity.

Should I buy CDs or VCDs?

Both. Start with VCDs, as the videos are a great help with understanding the songs. If you want to listen to an album properly, though, you need to get the CD as well: the VCDs are designed for karaoke and so have the vocal track on one channel only. Fortunately VCDs and CDs are both cheap (about 180 and 150 baht respectively), and some albums even come in packages with the same songs on both formats.

Who are the best singers?

For some reason, most of the big names in mor lam and luk tung are women. Pumpuang Duangjan was the biggest luk tung star; since her death Siripon Ampaipong and lately Tai Oratai have succeeded her. Mike Pirompon is the best male singer, and Rock Salaeng the best group. Banyen Rakgaen and Jintara Poonlarp are the biggest fish in the mor lam pond, and Ponsak Sawngsaeng the best of the men. A large proportion of mor lam releases are drama musicals which are largely impenetrable to outsiders, though Siang Isan are worth a try.

Where can I see mor lam and luk tung?

Mor lam and luk tung venues fall into two classes: indoor performances, usually in drinking and eating dens, are most common during the wet season (May to October), and outdoor performances, often at temple fairs or other festivals, in the rest of the year.
The best-known indoor venue is Tawan Daeng in Bangkok: there are several branches, but it's the one near Ekkemai which features mainly mor lam. The best outdoor concerts are the Wan-ngan Ga-chat (Red Cross Festivals), which take place in most Isan provincial capitals from November to January each year. The festival lasts for a couple of weeks in each city, with the singers rotating between the venues. The performers include some of the biggest mor lam and luk tung artists, as well as string bands. Be warned that the shows are often extremely long, lasting from about eight in the evening to one in the morning, and with the headline artist appearing only for the last one or two hours. There can also be a very high proportion of slapstick comedy routines to singing.

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